14 The Black Parrot
The entrance fee of Vallee de Mai National
Park was 50 rupees. There was a kiosk at
the parking lot selling decorations, featuring
or made of Coco de mer fruit alongside usual
run-of-the-mill souvenirs. We could also
buy real Coco de mer fruit but they weigh
up to 20 kg which make them a slightly awkward
souvenir. Furthermore all the nuts are under
the regulation of the National Park Authorities
and we can't take fallen fruits home without
permission.
Right in front of the park entrance, there
was an exhibition of Coco de mer.
Most palm fruits are carried long distances
floating on the sea but the Coco de mer fruit
is too heavy to float. I picked one up and
found it was true as it was so heavy that
I needed both hands to lift it. I think Mr.
Toson Shimazaki, a novelist and a poet, who
wrote a poem of about a coconut, would not
have had a flash of inspiration if he had
found this fruit instead of a coconut. I
thought if one of these fell on my head as
I walked under the trees it would be instant
death.
The male flower was also displayed. As my
guidebook vividly described it "the
Long thick phallic inflorescence" it
was gigantic a 2 m long specimen.
The terrain was rough with many ups and downs.
We heard unfamiliar clear high-pitched sounds
like a song bird's call just as we started
to climb. We looked though binoculars and
found there were four Black Parrots. Despite
their name they didn't look like parrots
instead having slim bodies, which resembled
Seychelles Blue Pigeons flitting about from
tree to tree nearby. In addition they were
eating fruit, further unusual behavior for
parrots.
Some local people, who carried Coco de mer
fruit probably to sell, were walking down
from the opposite direction. A guided tour
with several people came from behind. The
guide said to us as he passed that we were
lucky because the rain had stopped and the
sun was starting to shine which gave us a
good chance to listen to the rare Black Parrots.
We wanted to stay there longer but we had
to be picked up by the taxi only 55 minutes
after we had arrived. So we reluctantly left
the park after having explored only a small
portion of its 19.5 hectare area.