8 A night with tenrecs
Seven O'clock in the evening when we were
about to go out for dinner we saw a tenrec
at the front pass of the inn. This thorny
insectivore with a pointed muzzle was a little
smaller than a cat and had been introduced
from Madagascar as food. This animal had
also been introduced in the Comoros, Il de
la Reunion and the Mauritius. While we hurried
away to our room to have a camera it disappeared
and there was a cat instead. This cat seemed
to have scared the tenrec away.
We went to a restaurant up the road but it
closed. When we went back to the inn, to
our surprise, more than a ten plus tenrecs
foraged around, shoving dead leaves. Some
were large while others were small. We shone
our flash torch to see them clearly and,
surprisingly enough, they weren't perturbed
by this light. But when we began to take
pictures they were frightened by the flashes
and scattered into the bush although a few
were "frozen like a deer in the headlights".
We drove to a restaurant La Fontaine. A waitress
pointed to an empty table and said something.
Although I couldn't catch I guessed she meant
to say sit there so we sat at the table.
When the waitress came to take an order I
couldn't catch what she said so I said "Pardon?"
This time she said "Something to drink?"
in English. I assumed she spoke French at
first. Looking around we found almost all
customers were western tourists and they
spoke in French. But as we don't look French
I didn't expect them to speak to us in French.
The dishes were fancy and the atmosphere
was open and fashionable but the service
was slow probably because the restaurant
was crowded and the waitress was a long time
in bringing the bill when I asked for it.
Over all, the restaurant left something to
be desired. We ate palm bud salad, a small
hamburger steak as hors d'oeuvres and chicken
curry in Creole style, grilled meat in Creole
style, sweet instant coffee (disgusting)
and iced tea with strong lemon flavor almost
like lemonade at 205 rupee. It was a typical
tourist trap.
When we came back to our inn there were still
two tenrecs feeding there.
Somebody told us that flying foxes were kept
in a cage only five minutes walk from our
inn, so we visited the house and saw five
Seychelles Flying Foxes from outside as the
gate was closed. Another day I saw a man
cleaning around the gate and I asked him
if we could see the bats closer and he let
us in. Among the bats there was a mother
that held a fist-sized small baby which seemed
to be a day or two old. The baby hid its
head under the mother's arm so we could not
see its face.
It also rained hard on and off on January
2nd. We spent the day in the botanical garden
and at the mudflat watching birds. Because
most of the restaurants in the town were
still closed we went to another take-away
Chinese restaurant for lunch. They put us
down as Chinese and spoke to us in Chinese.
At night we watched tenrecs and flying foxes
near the inn.